new greenmaster treadmill motor

hi guys

i got given a new in the box treadmill motor off a friend,,its a green master type...........so my search is now over for my genny........

going to make another windturbine like the one i used to have before the council made me take it down due to it being a blot on the landscape yeah right,but this time i am going to make it portable on a trailer unit sort of......

i kept my controller from last time and wondered if GHURD could send me the diagram for it as i think its one of his i bought but misplaced the distructions for it.......thanks ghurd if it is your controller

got 2 12v 190ah wagon batterys off an uncle of mine combind with a chinease 2000w inverter i should have enough power to have my 42inch lcd tv,laptop,and lights on.......not at the same time of corse.......

[Gotwind Ben]

Neil.
I have owned 3 of such motors, I still have one.
Being of the brushed type DC motors they will work but not have a huge lifespan.

I found the rpm to volts being similar to the Ametek motors, therefore it will need to be a fast bladeset.
A 1 meter diameter 3 blader similar to the TLG blades in a good wind might come close to 12v charging.
http://www.tlgwindpower.com/rotors/tri_mm.htm

If not, 6 volt charging may be an option - not great I agree.

The dreaded planners!
there was another turbine down my lane for a year but they made him take that down in the end.
Mines up with no planning action taken,been lucky really.
Its done nothing for three months though now and there is still a massive high sat on the UK.

Motor looks fine to me.
Might get some brush dimensions before they change.

That controller is 'almost' mine.
Problem is the guy who made them has been missing for a year.
Next problem is he made about 5 versions, and some without a dump load (shorting controller with a relay), and some with a relay.
I figure either something changed domestically, or he could not keep up with warranty issues related to relays.
Have I ever mentioned my distaste for relays???

Can you open the box?

I need to know the value of resistor "RX", as shown here,
http://ghurd.info/images/DC/DumpController2.jpg

Also need to know if there is a relay,
Or power mosfets (possibly largest item in the box, TO-220 size possibly in a heat sink, marked IRFZ44N may not show),
And/Or how many power mosfets.
And/Or both a power fet and a relay.

Can you send me a few close up photos of the inside, to ghurd1 (that's a #1) at yahoo,comm. after repairing the spam prevention errors?

Need some special attention to where the "Output to power N-fet gate" wire (in the link) goes.

Not as complicated as I just made it sound. Just trying to save time.
G-

It seems ALL his versions used no dump load, and simply shorted the motor.
Not good IMHO.

Probably will need to change the RX resistor to a different value,
Add 2 fets and some dump load power resistors.
On a good note, much of the difficult stuff is done.
G-

exact same ghurd with a relay. here you go....regards nel

OK. It's up to you how you would like to proceed.

I would advise a relayectomy, and fet implants.
Need to change the RX to 100K. 1/4W is fine.
The existing RX is probably 1.8K, 3K or 3.9K.
There is a possibly the existing RX is 51K, which would not require changing.
In your pic, RX is the first flat laying item to the left of the blue pot.

The brown wire on the far left of the board will go to all the power fet Gates.
AKA- "Output to power N-fet gates".

Each fet must have it's own load, hopefully about 6A for an IRFZ44.
The power to the loads and fets must be a separate wire from the sensor wires.
This sketch would be with 10 ohm 25W power resistors. Each will dump about 1.44A for a total a bit under 6A. The flyback / freewheel (1A Schottky) diode is necessary if the load is inductive.

Basically, just need to change the one resistor in the PCB, add some wire, fets and dump loads.

http://i701.photobucket.com/albums/ww20 ... ts8res.jpg

The entire set up would be something like this...
(I am a photoshop wizard!)
http://i701.photobucket.com/albums/ww20 ... oShop2.jpg

I suppose it could be left like it is, but the relay will probably fail before long, and it is very hard on the motor, especially a large motor. And be physically hard on the blades.
It would present the issue of run-away blades, which is going to be an issue with a high coil resistance motor like that one, and the possibility of smoked windings. More so if the blades are lower TSR type like PVC guttering.

At the minimum, I would strongly advise a dump load(s) and some rewiring on the relay terminals.

Just for reference:
- I do not see a flyback diode for the relay coil (Very BAD when using a relay coil on a fet), which could smoke the fet.
- I do not see any blocking diode, which is confusing to me in a set up like that. I have a feeling some of those were connected so the relay dead shorted the battery.

It is often less expensive to get power resistors from me shipped to UK, than locally. Just a thought.
Been having a bit of trouble with email from UK and South Africa being greatly delayed. If anyone did not receive a reply, try again.
G-

The entire set up would be something like this...
(I am a photoshop wizard!)
http://i701.photobucket.com/albums/ww20 ... oShop2.jpg

hey glen,

just letting you know i for one look forward to all your..umm "artwork" very much! sure as heck beats some 10 minute utube videos with someone droning on and on (usually with someone elses work). best one of yours yet was the little stick man with the big smile trying to raise a turbine tower! LMAO

good of you to try and help clean up that mess they made of your baby..at least we see some hot glue! might be a problem now?

cheers, dave

With luck, should be able to snip resistor RX, leaving the wires as long as possible, and add the new RX resistor to the wires. No need to remove the PCB from the box?

A closer look makes me wonder if that stuff is not "Guerrilla Glue" type stuff. Looks a bit 'foamy'.

You should see the stuff I make that doesn't get posted.
G-